Contents
Berlin | Introduction
Berlin, the capital of Germany, is located in the northeastern part of the country. Berlin is a world-renowned metropolis with a long history and numerous famous buildings and attractions. From the Charlottenburg Palace, established during the 17th century in the Kingdom of Prussia, to the Brandenburg Gate, built during the 18th century in the Kingdom of Prussia, and the Reichstag building, constructed during the 19th century German Empire, these are all significant historical heritage sites in Berlin. The Berlin Wall, a symbol of the Cold War era, also witnessed the history of division and rebirth.
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Berlin | Transportation
Berlin's public transportation system is very well-developed, making it easy to reach major attractions by taking the subway, buses, and trams. Tourists can purchase day tickets or weekly tickets, allowing them to use all forms of public transportation. The subway is divided into the S-Bahn and U-Bahn, and for tourists, the bus routes they need to be most familiar with are routes 100 and 200. Tickets are divided into ABC zones, and you can purchase them according to your travel itinerary. Generally, if you are not going to Potsdam, an AB zone ticket will suffice. If you plan to stay mainly within Berlin city center and take the train, a three-day AB zone day ticket is probably the best choice, reducing the need to rent a car.
Berlin Multi-Day Transportation Ticket
If there are enough attractions you want to visit, you might consider purchasing a three-day pass, which includes access to attractions and hop-on-hop-off sightseeing buses.
Berlin 3-Day Pass (Includes sightseeing)
My itinerary this time included driving to other places later, so I only rented a car for one day in Berlin. On the first day, we bought a day pass for zones AB, and for the next day and a half, we drove to Potsdam and other attractions. This arrangement allowed us to explore the areas around Berlin more flexibly while also enjoying the convenience of driving ourselves.
Berlin | Accommodations
It is recommended that everyone arrange accommodation near Museum Island, as the transportation is more convenient and the attractions are more concentrated. There are many museums and historic buildings around Museum Island, making it perfect for travelers who want to delve deeper into Berlin's history and culture. In addition, there are also many restaurants and cafes, providing easy spots to rest while touring.
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Berlin | Itinerary Planning
Berlin's history and architectural charm are endless, and if you have plenty of time, planning a week-long trip is definitely worthwhile. However, since everyone's time is limited, here is a summary of some key areas, offering a three-day itinerary suggestion to let you fully experience the charm of Berlin.
The tourist areas of Berlin can be divided into:
- Mitte District: Located in the city center, the attractions to the east of Museum Island include Alexanderplatz, Berlin TV Tower, Nikolaikirche, and more. You can choose to go by car or on foot.
- Museum Island: Located in the city center, Museum Island is the heart of all attractions, featuring several famous museums that can be explored on foot.
- West of Museum Island: Located in the city center, the attractions west of Museum Island include Gendarmenmarkt, Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten Park, Victory Column, and more. You can choose to travel by car or on foot.
- Charlie Checkpoint Area: Located to the south of the city center, it includes attractions such as the Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Jewish Museum, suitable for travel by car.
- Attractions on the outskirts of the city center: The East Side Gallery to the northwest of the city center, the Berlin Wall Memorial to the northeast, and Charlottenburg Palace, among others. These attractions are relatively far away, so it is recommended to take a vehicle to visit them.
The Mitte District, Museum Island, and the area west of Museum Island are all close to the center of Berlin, which makes them walkable for those who enjoy long walks. Starting from Alexanderplatz, you can walk all the way to the Brandenburg Gate. If you have enough time, you can walk from Gendarmenmarkt to Checkpoint Charlie or directly from the Brandenburg Gate to the Victory Column. However, if you want to conserve your energy, you can take a bus at least from the Brandenburg Gate to the Victory Column. Walking from east to west without stopping takes about an hour and a half.
The remaining attractions are relatively scattered in terms of geographical location, making it more convenient to travel by car. If you use public transportation for all of them, it will take at least one and a half to two days, including visiting time.
Berlin | Attractions
Mitte District
The attractions east of Berlin's Museum Island roughly encompass the Mitte district and Museum Island. Below are introductions to the Berlin TV Tower, the Red City Hall (Rotes Rathaus), the Nikolaikirche quarter in the Mitte district, as well as the Berlin Cathedral and museums on Museum Island.
Berlin TV Tower
The Berlin TV Tower is a landmark of East Berlin and can be seen from almost all the central attractions. Generally, when entering Berlin from other places, one will usually pass through the Alexanderplatz station, and upon exiting, this towering TV tower comes into view. The tower was originally constructed in 1965, with the primary purpose of showcasing East Germany's strength to the Western bloc. The TV tower stands at a height of 368 meters, making it one of the tallest buildings in Germany.
At the top of the Berlin TV Tower, there is an observation deck where you can see the beautiful cityscape of Berlin on a clear day. The observation deck also features a rotating restaurant called "Sphere," which completes one full rotation every 30 minutes.
Red City Hall
The Red City Hall is located in the center of the Mitte district, very close to the Berlin TV Tower. Its new Renaissance style and red brick facade are quite striking. This building was initially constructed in the 19th century but was bombed during World War II. After the war, the Red City Hall was rebuilt according to its original design and continued to serve as the Berlin City Hall after the reunification of Germany.
Nikolaiviertel
The Nikolaiviertel is the oldest residential area in Berlin, featuring many well-preserved historical buildings. Its narrow streets, squares, and churches create a charming medieval atmosphere.
St. Nicholas' Church is the core of the neighborhood. This church, built in the 13th century, is one of the oldest churches in Berlin. The St. Nicholas' Church features two distinctive spires and belongs to the Gothic architecture style. After being reconstructed following World War II, it became the center of the Nikolaikirchplatz. The Nikolaikirchplatz developed around this building.
For tourists, the most interesting part of the Nikolaikirchplatz is probably the surrounding medieval buildings. This small district has preserved many medieval-style structures (quite a number of which were reconstructed later), thus the entire area is rich with a medieval atmosphere. Walking here feels like traveling back to ancient Europe, where street performers dressed in medieval costumes can often be seen singing and performing, attracting many tourists to stop and watch. Many tourists also don medieval attire, blending in with the historic buildings, enhancing the immersive experience. The whole district feels like a living historical stage, providing a strong sense of cinematic atmosphere.
Museum Island
Museum Island is located on the west side of the Spree River. Starting from Nikolai Church, walk north along the riverside, and you will see the iconic Berlin Cathedral. After crossing the bridge, you'll reach Museum Island. Museum Island is one of Berlin's major tourist attractions, featuring five famous museums: the Altes Museum, the Neues Museum, the Pergamon Museum, the Alte Nationalgalerie, and the Bode Museum. The architecture of these museums is highly valuable for its aesthetic appeal. Due to the perfect blend of architecture and culture, Museum Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
It might take one or two days to fully visit all five museums, so it's advisable to select the ones you're most interested in. Each museum allows direct entry for ticket purchase. You can either buy a single museum ticket or a Museum Island pass after entering the museum, or opt for online pre-purchase.
Berlin Cathedral
The Berlin Cathedral is located on the eastern side of Museum Island and is the gateway before entering Museum Island. This church building is quite magnificent and eye-catching, though this is actually a simplified design from post-World War II restoration. The square in front of the cathedral is a place where both citizens and many tourists rest. Visiting the square on a Sunday afternoon, although it is always crowded, listening to German street performances can still be quite relaxing.
National Gallery
Entering the museum complex on Museum Island, the first thing that catches the eye is the National Gallery (Alte Nationalgalerie). This museum was built in 1867 and now houses a large collection of 19th-century sculptures and paintings.
The architectural style of the National Gallery belongs to Neoclassicism. Its exterior design, with elegant colonnades and steps, makes the entire building appear very grand and magnificent. This museum was completed in 1867, and the purpose of the building at that time was to showcase the great achievements of Prussian national art. During World War II, the National Gallery suffered some damage, but after the war, it was restored and still retains its original appearance.
Pergamon Museum
The Pergamon Museum is the youngest museum on Museum Island, but its collection includes a wealth of Near Eastern history and Islamic art. It is renowned for archaeological reconstructions such as the majestic Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus, the Processional Way of Babylon, and the Ishtar Gate.
(Note: The Pergamon Museum will be closed from October 23, 2023, with some areas expected to reopen in 2027.)
If you haven't purchased tickets in advance, you might need to wait in line for a while. I arrived twenty minutes before opening to queue, but I still only got to purchase my ticket after the third group, which was about half an hour after the museum opened. Although the waiting time was a bit long, the Pergamon Museum is very well-organized and you can request audio guides in various languages (including Chinese). For visitors interested in Middle Eastern history and Islamic artifacts, it is definitely worth a visit.
The Ishtar Gate was one of the eight inner gates of the city of Babylon and a part of the city walls. The blue Ishtar Gate was once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Currently on display is the smaller outer gate, which stands at 14 meters high, with walls decorated alternately with dragon and bull reliefs, dedicated to the Babylonian goddess Ishtar.
On the other side of the Ishtar Gate, the Market Gate of Miletus is on display. Miletus was an ancient Greek city-state, and the gate stands 17 meters tall. This magnificent city gate was built in the 2nd century AD and once served as the entrance to the ancient Roman city of Miletus. The restored gate gives visitors the feeling of stepping back into the bustling marketplaces of ancient Rome.
Neues Museum
After visiting the Pergamon Museum, I spent the remaining time at the Neues Museum. The Neues Museum was originally built in the 19th century but was bombed during World War II. It wasn't until 2009 that it was rebuilt and reopened. The rebuilt Neues Museum primarily showcases Egyptian artifacts and prehistoric artifacts. The Egyptian artifacts exhibition is the main highlight, with the most famous exhibit being the bust of the Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. This statue is renowned for its exquisite carving and well-preserved colors.
West of Museum Island
The attractions west of Museum Island include Gendarmenmarkt, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag building, and the Victory Column. These landmarks are significant symbols of Berlin, each with its unique characteristics.
Gendarmenmarkt
Gendarmenmarkt is hailed as the most beautiful place in Berlin. The square is surrounded by three magnificent buildings, including the Konzerthaus Berlin located centrally on the west side, as well as two opposing buildings to the north and south. On the north side is the Französischer Dom (French Cathedral), and on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral). The entire square's history can be traced back to the seventeenth century.
The area surrounding Gendarmenmarkt is a large shopping and dining district, offering a variety of shopping and dining options. If you visit around Christmas, this place transforms into a romantic Christmas market, filled with festive atmosphere and light decorations, creating an unforgettable experience.
The Konzerthaus Berlin is the central building of the square, originally known as the Royal Theatre. This neoclassical building is renowned for its grand exterior and elegant interior decorations. The Berlin Concert Hall suffered severe damage during World War II and was rebuilt after the war according to its original design. In the middle of the square in front of the concert hall stands a statue of the famous German poet Friedrich Schiller, which has become an important landmark of Gendarmenmarkt.
The French Cathedral is located on the north side of the square. It was originally built in 1701 for the French Huguenot (Huguenots) congregation. The church tower can be climbed, offering a panoramic view of the entire square and the Berlin cityscape. Inside the church, there is a museum showcasing the history and culture of the French Huguenots. The German Cathedral is located on the south side of the square and was first constructed in 1708. Currently, the church houses a historical exhibition of the German Parliament, detailing the evolution and development of the German parliamentary system.
Brandenburg Gate
The Brandenburg Gate is not only a landmark of Berlin but also a symbol of the entire Germany. Among the attractions I visited in Berlin, this is one of the most popular and crowded areas with tourists, making it nearly impossible to find a spot for an easy photograph. The Brandenburg Gate is a neoclassical-style building, originally constructed to commemorate the Kingdom of Prussia's victory in the Seven Years' War.
The statue atop the Brandenburg Gate is the Victory Goddess Victoria, who is driving a quadriga, or a chariot drawn by four horses, facing the city of Berlin. This statue itself also has a tumultuous history. In 1806, during the Fourth Coalition against France, Berlin was occupied by Napoleon, who ordered the statue to be dismantled and taken to Paris as a war trophy. In 1814, during the Sixth Coalition against France, Prussia occupied Paris and Napoleon declared surrender, allowing Prussia to bring the Victory Goddess back to Berlin. Consequently, Berliners dubbed the statue "the chariot that came back." After the Victory Goddess's return, Prussia rose once more, and sixty years later, Wilhelm I achieved victory in the Franco-Prussian War, becoming the first Emperor of the German Empire.
Due to the significant role the Brandenburg Gate has played in many historical events, it has been preserved even after the Berlin Wall was dismantled. Today, it remains a symbol of Berlin and Germany.
Reichstagsgebäude
The Reichstag building (Reichstagsgebäude) in Germany is also a historically significant structure, located just a few minutes' walk from the Brandenburg Gate. It was formerly the seat of the Imperial Diet (Reichstag). The architecture of the building combines multiple elements; the original design included Italian Renaissance style, German Neo-Baroque architecture, and highly modern steel and glass structures for its time. The dome, which was reconstructed after World War II, is notably unique. Its transparent glass structure serves as both lighting and ventilation for the assembly hall, making it a part of the Parliament building's advanced energy technology.
The dome of the Reichstagsgebäude
The dome of the Reichstagsgebäude is open for visits, but due to the limited number of visitors, reservations are required in advance. The visit is free of charge, but prior to entry, a security check is necessary, and a free audio guide is provided. We specifically reserved a time around 7 PM, and once inside, we were not only able to see the unique dome design but also enjoy a panoramic view of Berlin.
In the center of the dome’s interior, there are 360 funnel-shaped mirrors arranged to direct sunlight into the parliamentary chamber. This design avoids directly shining sunlight, which could cause temperature increases. The mirrors can be controlled by a computer, adjusting with the sun's position to act as either reflectors or shields to achieve optimal lighting. The funnel shape also helps guide the internal heat towards the central hole of the dome for ventilation. The passages are equipped with heat recovery devices to reclaim the excess heat, thereby improving energy efficiency.
We specifically chose to visit during the early evening. From inside the dome, you can see the beautiful views of the Spree River and the Berlin TV Tower. At this time, it is still before twilight, and the city scenery is very charming. As night falls, Berlin's nightlife starts to liven up, and the cityscape adorned with lights is truly breathtaking.
After touring the interior of the dome, the visitor route leads to the outside of the dome, where you can closely appreciate the architectural structure of the dome. Standing outside, you can better experience the grandeur and unique design of this building.
Siegessäule
The Victory Column (Siegessäule) is located on a square in the center of the Great Tiergarten Park. The Great Tiergarten Park is expansive, with a main avenue running through its middle, and the Victory Column now stands at the center of this roundabout.
The Victory Column was originally built in the 19th century to commemorate Prussia's victories in the Danish War, the Austrian War, and the Franco-Prussian War. The column stands about 67 meters high, crowned with a statue of the goddess of victory, Victoria, symbolizing Prussia's glorious achievements. Initially, the Victory Column was located opposite the Reichstag building in Germany. However, due to the need for road widening in the city, the column was moved to its current position in the central roundabout of the Große Tiergarten park. This roundabout has become the new home of the column, making it an important landmark within the park.
The Victory Column is also open for visits, and it can be safely accessed from the surrounding underground passageways to enter the interior of the roundabout.
Checkpoint Charlie Area
Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie was a military checkpoint used by the Allies during the period of German division, and it served as a gateway between East and West Berlin. At that time, typically only Allied personnel or diplomats were allowed to pass through here to enter or exit East and West Germany. During the Cold War, this checkpoint became an important passage for spies and refugees between the East and the West. The checkpoint was equipped with guard posts manned by American and Soviet soldiers, symbolizing the confrontation between the two opposing blocs.
The checkpoint itself is a small white house located in the middle of the road, simple yet conspicuous. A signboard beside it displays pictures of Soviet Red Army soldiers, while on the other side, it shows pictures of U.S. Army soldiers. These signs are used to warn of the risks of entering the opposing camp's area.
Berlin Wall Museum
Next to Checkpoint Charlie, there is a souvenir shop and a small museum that displays the history of the Berlin Wall. A section of the Berlin Wall's remnants has been moved here for exhibition. I am particularly interested in this period of history, and I had previously seen a special exhibition at the Newseum in Washington D.C. Some of the materials and my reflections from that visit are recorded in the Newseum travel notes.
The division of East and West Berlin began after World War II, when Berlin was split into four occupation zones: East Berlin was occupied by the Soviet Union, while West Berlin was jointly occupied by the United States, the United Kingdom, and France. In the early post-war period, Berlin residents could freely move between the east and west parts of the city. Some people lived in East Berlin but worked in West Berlin. As the Cold War intensified, a large-scale escape of East Berlin residents to West Berlin occurred, prompting the Soviet Union and the East German government to blockade West Berlin in an attempt to force the Western Allies to abandon the area. In 1961, the East German government began constructing the Berlin Wall to prevent residents from fleeing to West Berlin. Initially, the wall was just a simple barbed wire fence, but it eventually evolved into a tall concrete barrier, symbolizing the East-West divide during the Cold War era.
The small museum at Checkpoint Charlie primarily exhibits historical information and remnants of the Berlin Wall. It showcases extensive historical materials that meticulously document the construction, maintenance, and demolition of the Berlin Wall. The museum also features numerous stories about how residents of East Berlin attempted to escape, highlighting their courage and ingenuity. Among the escape stories exhibited in the museum, some individuals chose simple methods such as hiding in car compartments, while others equipped vehicles with thick steel plates, attempting to break through the blockade. There were also those who executed their escape plans by forging documents or bribing stationed U.S. soldiers or diplomats. These escape attempts had varied outcomes; some were successful and reached the free world, while others faced severe punishment and tragic fates when they failed.
The outskirts of the city center
Oberbaumbrücke
The Oberbaum Bridge (Oberbaumbrücke) is located over the Spree River, geographically connecting the two areas that were once divided by the Berlin Wall. During the period of Germany's division, it belonged to the western border of West Berlin and has now become one of the symbols of Berlin's unification. Initially, this bridge was a wooden drawbridge— "Baum" in German means wood. In the 19th century, it was reconstructed into a stone bridge to meet transportation needs, accommodating vehicles, pedestrians, and rail lines. The two Gothic towers in the middle are very distinctive, although they do not have any practical function.
East Side Gallery
The East Side Gallery was originally part of the Berlin Wall. After the reunification of Germany, most of the Berlin Wall was dismantled. However, the East Side Gallery, which is 1.3 kilometers long, remains the longest preserved section of the Berlin Wall. On this wall, 105 paintings have been created, making it one of the largest open-air galleries in the world.
In 1990, artists from around the world created 105 paintings on the eastern side of this wall. Many of the works are satirical or political in nature, and it is said that only about one-third of the original pieces remain today. One of the most famous works is "The Kiss of Brotherhood" by Dmitri Vrubel, which depicts Soviet leader Brezhnev and East German leader Honecker kissing. On the western side of the East Side Gallery, there are photographs and historical information related to the Berlin Wall on display.
Berlin Wall Memorial Park
Among all the attractions related to the Berlin Wall, the Berlin Wall Memorial Park (Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer) is my favorite. This site is also part of the Berlin Wall’s original location. Unlike the East Side Gallery, it has largely been preserved in its original state, making it particularly effective in conveying the historical atmosphere of that time.
The Berlin Wall Memorial Park is located on Bernauer Straße in Berlin, where most of the original remnants of the Berlin Wall are preserved. This allows visitors to genuinely experience the historical atmosphere of that time. The park features numerous information boards that statically display the stories from the thirty years before and after the division of East and West Germany, and there are also areas where documentaries are shown.
The memorial park contains numerous relics related to the history of the Berlin Wall. For example, there are stone floors on the ground that display the routes of tunnels dug by workers trying to escape. In some places, remnants of the barricades that existed before the concrete wall was constructed can still be seen, showing the increasingly strict measures of East Germany over time.
Occasional remnants of bullet holes can still be found on the walls, and these details unmistakably impart a sense of the grim atmosphere from that period in history. Within the park, a watchtower relic from the East German era has been preserved. Through the narrow slits in the wall, visitors can peer inside, as if traveling back in time, to feel the tense atmosphere of that era.
In the park, there is a Chapel of Reconciliation (Kapelle der Versöhnung), which was originally the site of a Gothic-style church. This church was situated in the no man's land during the division, and it was demolished by the East German government in 1989. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Chapel of Reconciliation was built on the original site to commemorate that period of history and symbolize reconciliation and rebirth.
Schloss Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg Palace (Schloss Charlottenburg) is the largest existing palace in Berlin. Built in the 17th century, it is a Baroque-style palace. Initially, the palace served as the summer residence for Frederick I, and Charlotten was the name of his queen. Main areas to visit include the primary building known as the "Old Palace" (Altes Schloss), as well as the "New Wing" (Neuer Flügel) expansion added by later successors. Tickets for these two areas are sold separately. The French-style garden outside is open to the public for free. Charlottenburg Palace's architectural style is typical of the Baroque period, being ornate and decorative.
In the very center of the square at the main gate of the palace stands a statue of Frederick I on horseback, symbolizing the imperial power and majesty of Frederick I.
Berlin | Food
Currywurst
Berlin's famous Currywurst is a unique German street food. Currywurst originated in Berlin in 1949, created by Herta Heuwer. She sprinkled curry powder on sausage and then drizzled it with ketchup, creating a snack deeply loved by Berliners. Each shop has slightly different methods and flavors, but you can usually find a place on the street that serves a sausage combined with potatoes. This simple yet delicious combination is perfect for enjoying anytime, anywhere.
If you want to try a famous eatery, Curry 36 is a highly recommended spot found online. This place is more like a street stall and often has long queues. After purchasing, you can stand nearby to eat. Curry 36 offers various choices, and the basic combo with two sausages and fries is a popular option. The sausage without skin, Currywurst ohne darm, has a softer texture, while the Currywurst mit Darm with skin is chewier.
We had Currywurst mit Darm at another roadside café, and it was quite good.
Havelländer Fischsuppe
Havelländer Fischsuppe is a traditional fish soup from the Havelland region in Germany, located west of Berlin along the Havel River. Havelländer Fischsuppe is one of the area's specialties. The fish soup typically uses freshwater fish from the Havel River, combined with vegetables like carrots, onions, and celery, along with spices, making it very flavorful. We had this dish at the Estrel Stube restaurant in the Estrel Berlin hotel where we were staying, and it was quite impressive.
Ofenfrische Schweinshaxe
Ofenfrische Schweinshaxe is a classic German roasted pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe), characterized by its crispy outer skin and tender, juicy meat inside. It is typically a signature dish in German beer halls and traditional restaurants. We also had Ofenfrische Schweinshaxe at the Estrel Stube restaurant. The Ofenfrische Schweinshaxe had a crispy outer skin and tender, juicy meat inside, pairing perfectly with German dark beer.
Eisbein
Eisbein (Boiled pork knuckle) is another classic German pork dish. The skin of the boiled pork knuckle is tender, the meat is fresh and succulent, and it has a gelatinous texture. Paired with sauerkraut and potatoes, the flavor becomes even richer. We had it at a restaurant called Nante-Eck near the Mitte district. Just like roasted pork knuckle, it is definitely worth a try.
Berliner Beer
Berlin is also renowned for its unique beer culture, particularly the famous Berliner Weisse, an upper-fermented wheat beer that has a natural sour taste and a refreshing flavor. Additionally, many of Berlin's beer gardens (Biergarten) offer a wide variety of locally brewed Lager beers and Pilsner beers, which are also definitely worth trying.
Further reading
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