The Philae Temple Complex: A Journey to Egypt's Ancient Isis Sanctuary Rescued from the Waters

Contents

Philae Temple Complex | Introduction

The Philae Temple Complex ( Philae Temple, معبد فيلة) is situated on Agilkia Island, located in the Nile River in southern Egypt. The oldest structure within the temple complex is the Philae Temple, one of the most iconic ancient temples in Egypt. It dates back to the Late Period of Ancient Egypt, with construction initiated during the reign of Nectanebo I of the 30th Dynasty (380-362 BC). The temple was further expanded during the Ptolemaic Dynasty, dedicated to the worship of Isis, the goddess of motherhood and life in Egyptian mythology.

The temple complex became the most significant religious site in southern Egypt during the Ptolemaic Dynasty, attracting pilgrims from far and wide. Even after the dynasty ended, the Romans continued Egypt's religious rituals at Philae, making it one of the few ancient Egyptian religious centers still active during the Roman Empire. As such, the Philae Temple Complex bears witness to the cultural fusion of Ancient Egypt with Greek and Roman influences.

Originally, the temple complex was located on Philae Island, near the first cataract of the Nile in Upper Egypt. However, after the construction of the Aswan Low Dam by the British in the early 20th century, Philae Island was annually submerged during the flood season, damaging the original colorful reliefs. In the mid-20th century, with the construction of the Aswan High Dam, the rising water levels threatened to permanently submerge Philae Island. To protect this invaluable historical monument, the temples were dismantled and relocated to nearby Agilkia Island in 1960, as part of UNESCO's International Campaign to Save the Nubian Monuments. This relocation effort is considered a major feat in archaeological preservation, successfully safeguarding the ancient site.

It is recommended to allocate at least two hours to fully explore the temple complex, with early morning or late afternoon being the best times to visit. The sunset at Philae Temple is particularly renowned for its beauty, creating a mystical atmosphere as shadows and light interplay across the ancient structures.

Philae Temple Complex | Transportation

To reach the Philae Temple, you first need to travel to the southern Egyptian city of Aswan. You can refer to this article for detailed travel options from Cairo to Aswan.

Aswan Travel Guide: Essential Attractions and Cultural Highlights | Philae Temple | Unfinished Obelisk | Aswan High Dam | Nubian Culture

Since the Philae Temple is located on Agilkia Island, you will need to take a boat to reach the temple. Independent travelers can arrange their own transport. After arriving in Aswan, take a taxi to the Philae Temple Marina, where several boat operators offer ferry services.

Philae temple, Philae temple 1 — There are many stalls selling souvenirs at the ferry port.

Philae temple, Philae temple 2 — There are many stalls selling souvenirs at the ferry port.

The boat ride takes about ten minutes to reach Agilkia Island. If traveling independently, it is advisable to negotiate the fare with the boat operator and confirm the departure and return times. The average visit to the complex lasts around 2-3 hours. For a more convenient experience, especially if you prefer not to negotiate, joining a local tour group might be a good option.

Philae Temple Complex | Highlights

Temple of Isis

The Temple of Isis is the centerpiece of the entire site and the most important structure in the complex. It was built in honor of Isis, the goddess of motherhood and magic in Egyptian mythology, and the wife of Osiris, the god of the underworld. According to ancient Egyptian myth, Osiris was killed and dismembered by his brother Set, and Isis, as his wife, used magic to find and reassemble his body, bringing him back to life. As a result, Osiris became the ruler of the underworld. Isis, symbolizing maternal love and magical power, protected her son Horus, who eventually avenged his father by defeating Set. Many of the temple’s reliefs depict stories of Isis, Osiris, and Horus.

Originally located on Philae Island, this temple holds a special significance because the island was believed to be one of the burial sites of Osiris. Both northern Egyptians and southern Nubians revered the island. No one, except for priests, was allowed to live on it. According to legend, birds would not fly over Philae, and fish would not swim near its shores.

Upon reaching the Philae Temple dock, follow the path to the impressive entrance gate. The entrance plaza features two rows of columns that were expanded during the Greek and Roman periods, with 32 columns on the west side and 16 on the east, though many of these were never completed. If you are with a guided tour, your guide will likely explain the significance of these areas.

The stone gateway stands 18 meters high and 45 meters wide. Carved on its walls is a depiction of Pharaoh Ptolemy XII seizing an enemy by the hair and raising a club to strike him down before the gods Isis, Horus, and Hathor. Although the Ptolemies were foreign rulers, they placed great importance on integrating into Egyptian culture, and these ritualized depictions of smiting Egypt’s enemies served to emphasize their legitimacy as rulers.

In front of the entrance gate, there are two granite lion statues, reflecting the influence of Byzantine art. Originally, there was also a pair of obelisks here, but they were removed by British Consul Henry Salt in 1818 and are now located in a garden in Dorset, England.

Passing through the first pylon, visitors enter the first courtyard of the Temple of Isis, leading to the second pylon. Both pylons are adorned with reliefs of the pharaoh making offerings to the gods, following the traditional symbolism and ceremonial architecture of the Ptolemaic period. The main entrance and the second pylon feature a U-shaped notch, symbolizing the flow of the Nile into the temple, a design with deep religious significance.

To the left of the second pylon is the Birth House, constructed during the reigns of Ptolemy II and Ptolemy III, and dedicated to the young Horus. Unlike other birth houses, this one is located between the first and second pylons, parallel to the main temple, likely due to space constraints on the original Philae Island. Inside are three rooms with reliefs that depict the birth and upbringing of Horus, as well as his quest to avenge his father. The external columns are crowned with floral capitals, and the head of Hathor, the goddess of love, joy, and motherhood, is carved on them. Observant visitors will notice that Hathor’s expression on these columns becomes increasingly joyful from the first to the last.

Moving forward, you will reach the main part of the Temple of Isis, which includes a small courtyard, a hypostyle hall, an antechamber, and the sanctuary. While passing through the hypostyle hall, notice the Greek-Roman style columns and capitals, as well as the reed patterns at the base of the columns, symbolizing the Nile's flow into the temple.

You will also find many Christian crosses carved into the columns and walls. To the right of the entrance to the antechamber is an inscription in Greek, recording that Bishop Theodore, during the reign of Emperor Justinian (5th century AD), "successfully destroyed pagan reliefs." This text reveals the extent to which early Christians sought to eliminate pagan imagery in their efforts to establish Christianity in Egypt. In fact, the hypostyle hall was converted into a Coptic church at one point.

Philae temple, Philae temple 17 — Coptic Church can be seen in the middle of the colonnade

Philae temple, Philae temple 18 — Coptic Church can be seen in the middle of the colonnade

Traces of similar actions can be seen throughout the temple, where the images of ancient Egyptian deities were systematically defaced by early Christians. However, parts of the temple still retain their original form, as the temple, by the Christian era, was partially buried in sand.

The antechamber and sanctuary were built during the Ptolemaic period and are decorated with beautiful reliefs. The story of Osiris is depicted throughout the temple walls, and some scenes show Ptolemaic pharaohs offering sacrifices to the gods and consecrating sacred spaces.

Inside the sanctuary, you will see two small windows and a pedestal. This pedestal, inscribed with the names of Ptolemy III and his wife Berenice, originally supported two granite shrines: one holding a statue of Isis and the other her sacred barque (boat), used to carry her image during religious processions. The shrines, however, were later moved to Florence and Paris, so now only the stone pedestal for the sacred boat remains.

Surrounding the sanctuary are smaller chambers, including typical Egyptian temple rooms for priests and storage. Above the sanctuary is the Osiris Chamber, which contains reliefs telling the story of Osiris's death and resurrection, though this chamber is not open to the public.

After exploring the interior, don’t forget to admire the stunning reliefs on the outer walls of the temple.

Temple of Hathor

On the eastern side of the Temple of Isis stands the Temple of Hathor, whose decoration was completed during the reigns of Ptolemy VI, Ptolemy VIII, and Augustus. It was once surrounded by a mud-brick enclosure wall, and a stela near the temple walls mentions Ptolemy XII. The temple focuses on the story of the Eye of Ra, or the Eye of the Sun. In Egyptian mythology, Hathor was often depicted as the Eye of the Sun, symbolizing both creation and destruction. As the goddess of love and joy, she brought healing and comfort, but as the Sun's protector, she could become fierce and vengeful, especially when driven by anger.

The legend of the Eye of the Sun tells the story of how Ra’s eye, out of anger or dissatisfaction, fled Egypt and escaped to Nubia in the south. In her absence, Egypt was plunged into chaos and darkness. Ra sent Horus as a messenger to persuade the Eye to return. Through wisdom, flattery, or magical music, the Eye was pacified and convinced to return to Egypt, thus restoring order.

Kiosk of Trajan

The Kiosk of Trajan is an open-air temple, believed to have been built in the 2nd century AD by the Roman emperor Trajan, though some believe it may date back to the time of Augustus. Named after Trajan due to reliefs depicting him offering sacrifices to Osiris, Isis, and Horus in a pharaonic style, it once served as the main entrance to the temple complex from the river. The elegant design consists of 14 columns with floral capitals, representing a blend of earlier Egyptian temple styles with later European influences. The structure highlights the influence of ancient Egypt on Western culture and architecture.

Byzantine Temple

The Byzantine Temple is a small structure built during the Byzantine period, later converted into a Christian church. This reflects the changing religious landscape of Egypt at the time, as many ancient pagan temples were repurposed as Christian places of worship during the spread of Christianity. This was a common phenomenon during the Byzantine era, showcasing how the new religion adapted and integrated into local cultural and architectural practices.

Gateway of Hadrian

The Gateway of Hadrian is a corridor lined with reliefs, with its western exit once connecting to a now-lost colonnaded portico. Built between 117 and 180 AD, this was one of the last religious buildings at Philae, constructed under the reign of the Roman emperor Hadrian. It symbolizes the enduring significance of Egyptian religious practices even during Roman rule. Originally located on Biga Island, it was the starting point for the sacred barque procession to Osiris's tomb. The gateway is adorned with scenes of Osiris and Isis, along with reliefs of emperors Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius, reinforcing the Nile’s importance in religious rituals.

Sacred Bark Gate

The Sacred Bark Gate is a small Roman-period chapel, though undecorated, it reflects the Roman influence on Egyptian religious sites, representing the island’s long multicultural history and the transition of religious practices during the Roman era.

Granite quarries

Surrounding the Philae Temple Complex, you can also find ancient quarries. These quarries were important sources of stone for the construction of temples. Many of Egypt's temples and tombs were built using granite from Aswan. Due to the large demand for stone, these quarries were located near the Nile for easier transportation. Visitors to Agilkia Island can observe these quarries, which are said to be some of the largest in Africa.